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EP 308: Hair Conditioners

• Danise Keilitz • Season 5 • Episode 308

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Conditioner is more than just a post-shampoo powerhouse product – it's an essential step that restores what shampoo strips away, creating smoother, more manageable hair at a microscopic level.

• Understanding the science of conditioners – positively charged ingredients that stick to negatively charged hair
• Everyone needs conditioner, even fine hair – it's about finding the right formula for your specific hair type
• Four key benefits: detangling to prevent damage, protection against environmental stressors, moisture balance, and improved shine
• Different types for different needs: rinse-out, leave-in, deep conditioning masks, nighttime oils, and co-washes
• The beautiful Indian tradition of hair oiling combines family connection with incredible hair benefits
• Proper application matters – squeeze out excess water first and focus on mid-lengths to ends
• Contrary to popular belief, warm water rinses make hair shinier than cold water
• Two-in-one products compromise effectiveness by trying to do opposing jobs simultaneously

Follow me on Instagram and Facebook to see my favorite conditioners, which I'll be sharing this week – the link is in the show notes.


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Speaker 1:

onus, step after shampoo. It's a powerhouse product and today we're breaking down the what, why and how behind conditioners with some real-life stories, global rituals and science-backed facts. Welcome to All About Hair, where we talk, shop, share stories and spill the secrets behind great hair and a great career. I'm your host, denise Keilitz, a former salon owner, educator and a lifelong hair crusader. Whether you're a new stylist building your book or just someone who loves learning about all things hair, you're in the right place. Each week, we dive into real techniques, honest career advice and inspiration to help you grow behind the chair or just fall even more in love with the world of hair, because around here, it's not just about looking good. It's about learning, evolving and having a little fun along the way. So grab your coffee, your shears or your dry shampoo and let's get into it. Hey there, welcome back.

Speaker 1:

Let's start today's episode with a little bit of nostalgia. Do you remember the first time you ever used conditioner? Well, for me, I remember my mom calling it cream rinse, and it was a non-negotiable yeah. I had that long hair and I had lots of tangles. She'd say, if we skip it, there's no way we're getting a comb through that hair, and you know what? She was right. My first memory of conditioner is the brand called Flex. You know, I don't even know if they make that anymore, but just saying it, I can remember the smell. Oh, it smelled so good. It truly was one of my favorite shampoo conditioner smell. I don't know if you guys even remember Flex, but if you do, let me know. Okay.

Speaker 1:

So let's talk about what is a conditioner really? Well, at its core, conditioner is a moisturizing and protective product designed to restore what shampoos have stripped away. When we wash our hair, we're not just removing dirt and oil, we're also removing some of the natural lipids that keep the hair cuticle smooth and flexible. Conditioner steps in to replenish moisture, close the cuticle and add slip, making hair more manageable and less prone to breakage. So how does it work? When you shampoo your hair cuticle that outer layer of the hair you know that looks like fish scales or a pine cone. I've talked about it before. But your hair cuticle gets opened up and this allows dirt and oil to be washed away. But this can also leave your hair feeling rough, tangled or even a little fragile.

Speaker 1:

The ingredients in conditioner are positively charged, so they stick to your negatively charged hair. This helps smooth the surface, reduce static and strengthen weak areas. If you've ever noticed how much easier it is to brush your hair after conditioning, that's why Conditioners also lock in moisture and can add a protective barrier against everyday stressors like heat, styling, sun and pollution. Yeah, your conditioner actually has a little bit of UV or sun protection in it. I bet you didn't even know that. In short, it's like giving your hair a little hug after every wash.

Speaker 1:

So here's the science in simple terms. Conditioners contain ingredients like emollients, humectants and proteins. The emollients help to smooth and soften the hair. The humectants draw in moisture from the environment and from the air to help bring in moisture to your hair, and then the proteins can temporarily fill in the weak spots in the cuticle, strengthening the hair shaft. Most conditioners are also slightly acidic, which helps tighten the hair cuticle or lay it down, creating shine and smoothness while reducing frizz. That's why your hair feels silkier after you condition. It's actually smoother at a microscopic level.

Speaker 1:

So do you really need to use conditioner? I know I have those guests. I have clients with really fine hair that really don't. They say no, no, I don't use conditioner. I get it, I get it. They've actually probably have used the wrong conditioner in the past and it's weighed their hair down or it's felt oily. Totally get it.

Speaker 1:

But do you really need to use a conditioner? Yes, everybody needs to use some sort of conditioner. You just have to find the right one, especially if you want to grow your hair long or keep it looking its best Fine hair, curly hair, color treated hair. We all need different levels of conditioning and if you've had a bad experience in the past where your hair felt greasy or heavy, you probably just weren't using the right formula for your hair type. Even if your hair doesn't feel dry, it still needs conditioner.

Speaker 1:

Here's why. First, detangling Conditioner helps separate the strands, reducing mechanical damage from brushing or combing. We've all had that If you've been swimming in a swimming pool or you're at the beach and you get out of the water and you try to comb your hair without some kind of detangling agent on there, it's, it's hardcore. So that's the number one reason why you need conditioner. Number two is protection. It forms a barrier against the heat, styling, the pollution and the sun. We talked about that. Number three is moisture balance, especially important for those curly, color-treated or aging hair which tends to be drier. And then finally, the shine and the smoothness. It improves your hair's appearance and touch. Who doesn't want that? Skipping conditioner is like skipping moisturizer after washing your face. It just doesn't make sense.

Speaker 1:

Let's talk about the types of conditioner, because this is where it can kind of get fun and customizable. We have rinse out conditioner, and this is just your traditional daily use conditioner and it's meant to be left on for a few minutes and rinsed out in the in the shower or the bath. So this is great for detangling and just everyday softness. Then you have leave-in conditioners. These are lightweight formulas that you leave in your hair after washing. That could be a spray form or it can be kind of like a cream form, and this is great for extra moisture or heat protection or frizz control, even if you've used the rinse out conditioner beforehand. But ideally these are for fine hair or anyone who styles with heat. It's also great for kids.

Speaker 1:

You know those. Do you remember those spray in, leave in conditioners? They kind of look I can't even remember who made them, maybe L'Oreal or something a long time ago and they came in like fish shapes or I'm dating myself big time, but and they smelled really good. I remember my kids used to always love those Deep conditioners or hair masks. These are more intense treatments and they're usually only used once a week or as you need them. These penetrate a little bit deeper to repair, strengthen and revive very dry or damaged hair. There are some people that have really unruly, coarse hair that actually could use deep conditioners or hair masks every single time, almost like their daily conditioner, and it would not weigh down their hair. It just depends on your hair type.

Speaker 1:

Then we have nighttime oils and leave-on treatments, and these are actually oils that are used while you sleep for protection and softness, and these are actually oils that are used while you sleep for protection and softness, and we'll talk about that in just a little bit, about a ritual in India that they do. It's really cool. And then we have our last category, which is co-wash or a cleansing conditioner, and this is a great option for curly or textured hair types who want to gently cleanse without stripping any of the natural oils off their scalp. So let me tell you about that nighttime oils. One of the most beautiful rituals I've ever heard of comes from India and it's called hair oiling, and it isn't just about self-care, but it's actually a family tradition. The little ones, or even older. They sit at the feet of their grandmother while she massages warm oils into their scalp, and not only is this great for their scalp and their hair, but it's just a moment of connection. That oil blend is a blend of castor oil, coconut oil and olive oil, and it restores the hair like nothing else. Maybe you should try that If you're looking for something to restore your hair and make your hair feel like silk.

Speaker 1:

Mix those three oils. Warm them up a tad, you know. Massage them into your scalp all the way into the ends of your hair. Braid your hair up, sleep with it. Wake up in the morning. You might have to do two or three shampoos to get all that oil out of your hair, but your hair up, sleep with it. Wake up in the morning. You might have to do two or three shampoos to get all that oil out of your hair, but your hair will feel amazing.

Speaker 1:

Now let's talk about the science of conditioners. Hair is made of keratin, which is a protein, and it's protected by lipids, which is actually the moisture. When we color, heat, style or expose our hair to the sun, we lose those lipids. So conditioners they don't really rebuild protein, but it does help fill in the gaps left behind, like patching potholes in a road. Your hair won't magically revert to a virgin condition, but it will look and behave so much better. Revert to a virgin condition, but it will look and behave so much better.

Speaker 1:

How do you choose the right conditioner? And then how do you properly use a conditioner? First, you want to pick a conditioner that matches your hair type and your goals, whether that be moisture, volume, repair, color, safe, whatever it is, frizz, whatever it is you're trying to alleviate. There is a conditioner I guarantee it out there for your hair type. Even if you've got the finest, straightest hair on the planet, you still need some kind of conditioner. Probably just want a spray on conditioner.

Speaker 1:

But choose a conditioner that matches your hair type and then, for the best results, always squeeze out the excess water out of your hair before you apply your conditioner, because it's like a wet sponge. If you've got a really wet sponge and you try to soak up water in it, soak up water in it. It won't soak up any anymore because it's completely wet, but if you wring it out, it'll soak it up, same with your hair. Just squeezing out the excess water helps the conditioner penetrate your hair shaft better. Then, while your conditioner's on there, comb it through with your fingers or a wide tooth comb for better even distribution, so it goes all the way through your hair and try to focus.

Speaker 1:

Especially if you have long hair, try to focus on the mid lengths to the ends, not the roots, unless it's a scalp treatment conditioner. But the reason why you want to concentrate on just the mid lengths and the ends is because if you put the conditioner on the root area of your hair first of all, that's not where your hair needs condition. Your hair needs conditioned on the ends. If you think about it, that's the oldest hair on your head and it's probably the most prone to breakage chemical damage, uv damage, mechanical damage. So you really want that conditioner to penetrate that first. Slather it on the ends and then take what's left on your hands and rake it through your scalp. Your scalp produces oil. So typically your scalp unless you have a very dry scalp typically your scalp area or your root area of your hair doesn't really need too much conditioning.

Speaker 1:

But also listen to your hair. If it feels heavy, try a lighter formula or alternate with a leave-in. You don't always have to use the same conditioner every single time. I have like three conditioners in my shower and it depends on. Well, first, it depends on how I wear my hair that day If I'm going to wear it curly, if I'm going to wear it smooth, volume. You know, you know me, I have tons of products. So not everybody does have a ton of products, but I really do think everybody needs at least two types of conditioner, whether that means your daily conditioner and a deep mask, or your daily conditioner and a leave-in spray conditioner, whatever works for you.

Speaker 1:

And then you know we've always heard to rinse with cool water if you can, because it helps seal the cuticle. But you know what? I just read an article that there's actually a study that revealed that cool water rinses don't actually help seal the cuticle. Ah, I know. And it doesn't make your hair shinier. Actually, the results of this study actually showed. They showed that warm water makes your hair the shiniest. Warm water rinse, not cool water rinse. The reason for this is because your hair is not alive. It's a cuticle on your hair. Your cuticle's not alive, it doesn't listen to the water and go. It's cool water. I'm going to shut down now. No, it doesn't do that. The only thing that will shut down the cuticle is actually a different pH, and that's what the conditioner is for. So you don't have to be in that shower and turn on the cold water. So don't worry, warm water is the best for rinsing. And if you really want me to put where I can't remember where that study was, but I I'll find it, if you're curious, let me know, I'll guide you to that study. But I did read something about that.

Speaker 1:

Okay, let's talk about two-in-one conditioners shampoos and conditioners. You know, you've seen them right, two-in-one shampoos and conditioners. Mostly men like these the best because it's quick and easy, like fraternities, or think about that guy's locker room. Yeah, sure, they might be convenient and it's a great marketing thing and they might work a little bit. But if you really want true cleansing and conditioning, give them each their own stage time. If you will, shampoo and conditioner do actually opposite things cleaning versus restoring and combining them also might mean compromising on them both. So it's kind of like mixing oil and water. They might mix up, but then they're going to separate Same thing. I would probably recommend skipping the two in ones. But everybody's different. If it works for you, fabulous. So here's my final thoughts.

Speaker 1:

Your hair is your crown and the conditioner helps make it shine, Whether it's a quick rinse out or a weekly mask that really, really gets in there and moisturizes your hair. Give your strands the love they deserve. Want to know my favorites? Hmm, I'm going to share them on my social media this week. I might make a YouTube out of it too, so make sure you follow me on Instagram, facebook, first name and last name. I'll leave a link in my show notes and I'm going to leave my favorites on my social media this week.

Speaker 1:

Thank you for joining me today and don't forget to subscribe, leave a review and share this episode with a friend. And until next time, remember, when you know better, you do better. Thanks for tuning in to All About Hair. If you loved this episode, hit, subscribe, leave us a review and share it with a fellow stylist or hair loving friend. You want more tips, tools and behind the scenes goodness, follow me on YouTube or head to my website at denisekeilitzcom. Yes, I know it's hard to spell, so don't worry, the link is in the show notes. Until next time, keep learning, keep creating and keep loving what you do.

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Danise Keilitz

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