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All About Hair...and So Much More.
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All About Hair...and So Much More.
EP 307: The Truth About Silicones
Silicones have become the subject of endless debate in the beauty world, with "silicone-free" products multiplying across store shelves. But what exactly are these synthetic polymers, and why do manufacturers include them in our favorite hair products? I break down the science behind silicones—explaining how they create that protective layer that makes your hair feel incredibly soft, reduces frizz, adds shine, and even provides heat protection.
We explore the most persistent myths surrounding silicones, including the scientifically impossible claim that they "suffocate" your hair. (Spoiler alert: hair is made of keratin and doesn't breathe!) I share my professional perspective on that salon "scraping test" you might have experienced, revealing when it's showing genuine buildup and when it might actually be damaging your cuticle. Plus, learn why modern silicone formulations have largely solved the buildup problems of the past.
Whether you have fine, thin hair that gets easily weighed down or thick, coarse, frizzy hair that craves smoothing agents, this episode provides practical guidance for incorporating silicones into your routine wisely. Discover how to strike the perfect balance with clarifying shampoos and how to choose products tailored to your specific hair needs. The truth about silicones isn't black and white—it's about finding what works for your unique hair type and concerns. Ready to reconsider everything you thought you knew about this misunderstood ingredient?
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Today, we're talking about a little ingredient that's gotten a whole lot of buzz silicones. You've probably seen silicone-free plastered across shampoos and conditioners lately, but what does that really mean? Are silicones the villain they're made out to be, or is there more to the story? Let's break it down. Welcome to All About Hair, where we talk shop, share stories and spill the secrets behind great hair and a great career. I'm your host, denise Kylitz, a former salon owner, educator and a lifelong hair crusader. Whether you're a new stylist building your book or just someone who loves learning about all things hair, you're in the right place. Each week, we dive into real techniques, honest career advice and inspiration to help you grow behind the chair or just fall even more in love with the world of hair, because around here, it's not just about looking good. It's about learning, evolving and having a little fun along the way. So grab your coffee, your shears or your dry shampoo and let's get into it. Okay, so just what are silicones? Silicones are synthetic polymers commonly used in hair products to enhance smoothness, shine and manageability. They work by forming a protective layer onto the hair, which can help reduce frizz, improve detangling and protect against heat damage. If you've ever used a conditioner that's left your hair feeling super soft and frizz-free, it's probably the silicones that are in your product. However, some silicones, particularly non-water-soluble ones, can cause buildup if not properly cleansed, leading to hair that feels oily, dull or dry. You've probably heard me mention that scraping test that we used to do in the salon, unbeknownst to me. Yes, it is scraping off some silicones. If you have buildup on your hair, you can actually take your shears and take a piece of hair and scrape on it and it does kind of look like a waxy substance that's coming off your hair. So if you have a guest or if you yourself are feeling like your hair is limp or, you know, weighed down or and you're just like what the heck's going on with my hair, that might be the reason why. But I've also heard that if there isn't silicones or buildup on your hair and you do that to your hair, you're actually scraping your cuticle layer off. So just be careful if you do that. Not all of those tests that you see on social media that they're scraping the hair Not all of them are silicones. It's kind of a trick that, yeah, hairstylists might do to get you to maybe buy professional products, but some of those are actually. It's real. It just depends on what's going on with your hair. So, anyway, some of the common ones that you're going to see on the labels of your shampoo or conditioner or your hair treatments is dimethicone, cyclomethicone and amodimethicone. Sorry, I'm not a scientist. It's very hard to pronounce these words, but I'm reading them off to you. I will put those in the show notes so you'll know what to look for. But basically, if it ends in cone, c O N E is probably got a silicone in there. Um, sorry guys, my dog is walking on my hardwood floors and you can hear her tip tapping behind me, so I hopefully she lays down soon.
Speaker 1:Okay, so why do people, why do the brands use the silicones in the first place? Yeah, well, they work. They actually do work. There's some benefits of silicones in hair products. First and foremost is they make your hair feel good. You make it feel soft and smooth and they actually help with detangling. So it's easier wet and dry combing if there's a silicone in the product. Also, silicones help with frizz control. Actually, it could be your best friend if you've got frizzy hair or thick, coarse, frizzy hair. For sure that's a blessing. To have silicones in your product Also helps with shine enhancement, adds that shine and that luster to the hair and it has heat protection in there. So some silicones can help protect hair from heat damage there. So some silicones can help protect hair from heat damage. So why do you think silicones have such a bad reputation?
Speaker 1:Let's just talk about some of the myths that are out there. Myth number one silicones suffocate your hair. They might suffocate your hair follicle on your head, but not your hair, because hair is made of keratin and it doesn't breathe. So silicone won't suffocate your hair strand. Um, they just sit on the surface and it they do rinse out with a good cleanser. So if you're using a good shampoo, the silicones that are in your products they'll come right off your, off your scalp and your hair, um. Myth number two silicones cause buildup. Well, some of the older forms of silicones they were not water soluble and, yes, they could build up over time. But many of these modern formulations, you know science has gotten much, much better. They use lighter or water soluble silicones that wash out more easily. So that myth has kind of been squashed, unless you're still using, I don't know, old, old, old shampoo conditioner, which you shouldn't be doing. And myth number three silicone-free means healthier, not necessarily, not always.
Speaker 1:Silicone-free is a marketing term, not a guarantee of better results. What matters is how your hair responds and how you cleanse it and care for it, so it just depends on your hair. So let me give you some tips for using silicones, because it's silicones are in our hair products. It's not a bad thing, okay, so choose the right type of silicone. So consider using silicones that are easier to wash out of your hair, such as silicones like cyclomethicone. Okay, I pulled that right out of self magazine, so I'm not making this up. Okay, um, use, use your silicone sparingly.
Speaker 1:So don't hopefully not every single product you're putting on your hair your shampoo, your conditioner, your, your styling treatment, your hairspray hopefully, not every single one of them has, um, silicones in them. Just start with a small amount and then gradually increase as needed. If you have really fine, thin hair, silicone's probably not going to be your best friend, but if you have thick, coarse, frizzy hair, you better believe it, you're going to be screaming for it. Make sure you rinse thoroughly. So ensure that you rinse your hair after using products containing silicones, because you don't want it to build up on your hair, and you've probably heard me say, there are some products out there that are known to have silicones in them and they do build up on your hair over time. And as long as you know that and about every third shampoo you're using a deep cleansing shampoo to get them off your hair, there's nothing wrong with that shampoo to get them off your hair. There's nothing wrong with that. So, as long as you know and being aware of what's going on with your hair, and just like what I said, you do want to make sure you're using a clarifying shampoo, but every third shampoo once a week depends on your hair. Again, this helps remove buildup from non-water soluble silicones that might be in your products. And then also, like we've been talking about, consider your hair type. Some hair types may be more prone to build up with silicones than others. At the end of the day, it's not about good or bad, it's about balance and what works for you and your hair. So are silicones the enemy? No, nope, nope. Science has proved this. They're just another tool in your toolbox. If you use them smartly, pair them with proper cleansing, your hair will thank you If you've been confused by a product label or if you're unsure about what ingredients really do.
Speaker 1:I hope today's episode has helped clear the air. I know this has been short and sweet, but just don't fear the silicone. It might just be the slip your strands were waiting for. Thanks for tuning in to All About Hair. If you loved this episode, hit, subscribe, leave us a review and share it with a fellow stylist or hair-loving friend. You want more tips, tools and behind-the-scenes goodness? Follow me on YouTube or head to my website at denisekeilitzcom. Yes, I know it's hard to spell, so don't worry, the link is in the show notes. Until next time, keep learning, keep creating and keep loving what you do.
