All About Hair

241 Decode Shampoo Labels for Better Hair Health

• Danise Keilitz • Season 4 • Episode 241

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What if the secret to healthier hair lies in the fine print of your shampoo bottle? Join me as we navigate the complex world of hair loss, unraveling how everyday stress, hormonal shifts, and societal expectations can amplify this often-overlooked issue, particularly for women. Together, we'll scrutinize the hidden culprits in your hair care routine, like the sulfates found in many common shampoos, which can strip your scalp of its natural defenses, leaving it dry and irritated. Discover why it's crucial to be aware of these ingredients and how opting for sulfate-free alternatives can help create a nurturing environment for hair growth.

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Speaker 1:

Welcome to All About Hair, the podcast for anyone who loves the hair industry. I'm your host, denise Kylitz, a former stylist educator and owner of four award-winning salons with over 30 years of experience. Whether you're refining your skills or expanding your hair knowledge, you're in the right place. Join me for expert tips, industry insights and practical advice to help you thrive in the world of hair. This is all about hair. Hey there, and welcome back to another podcast.

Speaker 1:

Today we're going to be talking about hair loss. I don't know why it is, but lately I've been having a lot of conversation with women about hair loss and that it really does affect them and their self-identity. Now, I don't know why the conversation keeps coming up more and more. For me, Maybe it's the age of the women that I hang with. I don't know if that happens, because it's true, hormones play a huge, a huge part in losing your hair and and it's kind of sad because hair has always been, you know part of your self identity it it's actually a symbol of beauty. You know, when you have a thick, luscious hair, it makes you feel good. That's why they say there's nothing like uh, you know, when your hair looks good, you feel good. Right, good hair days, things like that, but hair loss when you're experiencing it, it's very, very stressful and heck. Stress causes hair loss and it affects so many people worldwide, I mean. And there's so many reasons that you lose your hair. One of those reasons, like I just said, was is stress, especially in women and again, we see our hair as an expression of our beauty and and you know our youth. And when you have a lot of stress and it's intensified by society or what's going on in society or media, and you start losing your hair because of hormones, things like that too, it leads to low self-esteem. It leads to low self-esteem. It leads to low self-esteem and if it occurs in younger years, it can it really does affect your self-esteem.

Speaker 1:

So let's talk about a few things what causes hair loss, what you can do about it? Maybe we'll touch on that, but really today I want to talk about your shampoo, because have you thought about that that maybe just your shampoo alone and what you're using to shampoo your hair might be causing your hair loss? Have you thought about I just had this conversation this weekend with my mother-in-law that, hello, you might be making the situation worse by using certain shampoos that are out there because they're cheap. They're affordable, um, and people don't want to spend $60 on a shampoo. I don't blame them. Things are expensive these days. However, if you're spending $3 on a shampoo, I mean, let's face it, you got to have shampoo, you got to shampoo your hair. It's not something you just can't do, and so you need to buy shampoo, and most people think that shampoo just cleans your hair right? Well, it does. Most people think that shampoo just cleans your hair right? Well, it does. However, there are some ingredients in the cheaper products that actually can cause hair loss, and so today I want to talk about the ingredients that can contribute to hair loss. I want to then talk about, maybe, ingredients that to look for that are good for you, and what you can do. So, first and foremost, you've probably heard of sulfates, so what we're going to do is we're going to talk about the ingredient, what they are, why they're a problem to be in your shampoo.

Speaker 1:

Okay, so sulfates is the cleaning agent that's commonly found in most shampoos. They help to remove dirt, the oil, the product buildup from the scalp, and many people, many people, many manufacturers they use sulfates because they give you that rich lather, you know, and, in our eyes, the more bubbles, the better cleaning, right? Well, not, that's not the case. But people associate the more the more it lathers, that is cleaning more. There's some wonderful shampoos out there that don't lather very much at all because they don't contain any sulfates. The trick is, sometimes you just have to add a little bit more water to get that slippage and that the bubbles that you're so used to, but you can have a really great shampoo and it doesn't lather at all, cause really what shampoos are doing is cleaning your scalp and your hair.

Speaker 1:

So why is why are sulfates so bad for you? People ask me that a lot. What's a big deal? Well, it's because they're so strong of a detergent that they can strip the hair and the scalp of their natural oils, and what happens is this can lead to extreme dryness. What happens is this can lead to extreme dryness, irritation on the scalp, inflammation of the scalp, and this creates an environment that's like less conducive to healthy hair growth, and if your scalp's not healthy, it's really hard to have healthy hair growth. So if you have sensitive skin, sulfates can really cause some scalp irritation and that might actually, because the inflammation, contribute to hair loss over time. The inflammation. What happens is, if your scalp is inflamed, it actually inflames your hair follicle, the hole where your hair grows out of, and it can suffocate the hair bulb and then you won't have hair growth. So if you're sensitive, if you have sensitive skin on the rest of your body, you might be sensitive sulfates as well, and you just don't know it because you haven't tried anything else. So, um, if you've ever experienced like extreme dryness and your scalp feels really I don't know dry after your shampoo, it could be sulfates in your shampoo.

Speaker 1:

Shampoos are sodium lauryl sulfate my SLS and sodium lauryl sulfate S-L-E-S those are the abbreviations of them. So look for those. Those are usually the main culprit. You want to use a shampoo that says sulfate free, for sure, for sure, number one. Okay, now let's talk about parabens. So parabens are actually used as a preservative in a lot of products, including shampoos, and it helps prevent bacteria from growing and it helps the uh prolong the shelf life, if you will. Um, common parabens and forgive me if I slaughter these are methylparaben, ethylparaben and propylparaben. So those are the ones that you want to look for. And why are they so bad for you? Well, they can actually affect your normal function of your hormone system, in both males and females, and this can actually lead to hair loss. Usually, the concentration of parabens is pretty low in shampoos. However, because you use them, maybe daily, every other day the prolonged exposure to these parabens over your life, it can actually build up in the body and it actually can increase the risk of hormonal disruption. Have you even thought about that? Because you know it actually bleeds into your scalp, but your skin absorbs it and it can also cause scalp irritation and, again, just like what I said, scalp irritation can lead to hair loss in sensitive people.

Speaker 1:

Okay, let's move on to silicones. Silicones, um, well, these are synthetic ingredients and so they're they're made in a factory and they're usually in shampoos and conditioners because they help to make your hair look shiny and smooth. That's what they're used for. They actually form a protective coating around each strand, so it helps to lock in the moisture and reduces frizz. Okay, there is one brand in particular that uses a lot of silicones. I'm not going to mention brands, but after a while, um, they can um, stay if you keep using it, this product and it has silicones in it. It builds up on each of your strands. We used to do videos where you can scrape this off of individual strands of hair. So you know, the first couple of times you use these products, your hair looks shiny and smooth and all that, and you use them more and more and it's like, why aren't they working anymore? They actually are just building up on the hair. So be careful with silicones.

Speaker 1:

There are some good silicones, but here's the bad ones. The sodium chloride that's a silicone that can actually dry out your hair and scalp, even though it's making your hair look shiny, and it strips away the natural oils that protects your scalp. Um, so what happens then? Sometimes it can, because you've just dried out your scalp. Your scalp thinks it's dry, so it produces more oils, so it makes more oil on your scalp sometimes, and then you have oilier hair. Then you're shampooing more often, which just compounds the problem. You see how this works. So the silicones can actually, because it's drying the scalp, it can actually make your hair more susceptible to damage, breakage and thinning.

Speaker 1:

I know, goodness gosh, you think you're doing a good thing and nope, okay, another ingredient that you want to look out for sodium chloride. This is actual just table salt. Yeah, it's actually added to shampoos as a thickening agent because it's so cheap to use and it improves the texture and the consistency of the shampoo. Um, manufacturers put it in there, but it serves no purpose for your hair at all. It just is a thickening agent because people are so used to when they squeeze out their shampoo in their hand that it has a certain what is that word? You know it feels, you know a certain way, and so if it just pours out like water, you're probably not going to use it. So they put in sodium chloride, which this can be really drying to your scalp and your hair, because it strips the natural oils and it leads to dryness and your hair will get brittle. You know, sometimes people say why does my hair feel like straw? Well, sometimes it's the shampoo you're using. So this can lead to damage, breakage, hair thinning and it can contribute to hair loss. Okay, sodium chloride.

Speaker 1:

Then you want to look out for alcohols. Now there's a big, broad category. Okay, because there's. They're used for so many different purposes. So, alcohols it could be used as a solvent, a preservative, or it could be how you get your fragrance into your shampoo. So not all alcohols are bad for your hair, like soterial alcohol and sterile alcohol, but certain types, such as isopropyl alcohol and ethanol, are really drying for your hair. They can strip your scalp and your hair of the natural moisture and it leads to dryness, brittleness and breakage, and over time, this can really weaken your hair shaft and make it more prone to split ends and breakage. Thus it does cause hair loss.

Speaker 1:

So, uh, I know a lot of the the less expensive shampoos that are out there that make your hair squeaky clean. Um, my husband's one of those that really love that feeling. They have a lot of alcohols in them and it actually does. Yes, yes, and you know, after you first shampoo your hair, yeah, your scalp, your hair, feels squeaky clean, which it should never feel squeaky clean, but then it gets oilier because you've just stripped your scalp and your hair of all of the moisture, and so it's compounding the problem. He won't listen to me. He likes that feeling, but that's probably why he's losing his hair.

Speaker 1:

Okay, let's move on to synthetic fragrances and colors. So we all love a good smelling shampoo. I don't know about you, but when I was growing up, um, flex shampoo, oh my gosh, I could still just saying it. I could smell it. I don't even know if they make flex shampoo anymore. But oh, I loved that smell. I could probably guarantee you that it was not good for your hair. Um, there's another smell that comes to mind. What was that? Apple pectin shampoo? Oh, my goodness. Um, let's see there was. Uh, what purge shampoo actually had a really clean smell. You know these are smells that they just come to mind when, when you're thinking.

Speaker 1:

But you know you gotta be real cautious of heavily fragranced shampoos, because they're usually created by a blend of chemicals. Some of them can be pretty harmful to like artificial colors, and they're usually derived from petroleum-based ingredients which can cause big time irritation to your hair and your scalp scalp. So why? I would probably look for shampoos that have well, that don't have added fragrance in it. I know the ones that I use. They don't have added fragrances, because these chemicals can cause allergic reactions.

Speaker 1:

They can also cause irritation and inflammation of the scalp reactions. They can also cause irritation and inflammation of the scalp. Goodness, this inflammation of the scalp, chronic inflammation in your body of any sort, can cause so many problems. But if we're just talking about hair loss, think about it. If your scalp is irritated and inflamed, it is going to suffocate your hair follicle and your hair will fall out. It can't be good for you, and if you have sensitive skin of any kind, it's probably going to be worse on your scalp. So it could potentially lead to hair loss. And guess what? Synthetic fragrances that they create in a factory can also disrupt your hormonal balance, again contributing to hair loss, because the hormones in your body really does affect hair loss, I know.

Speaker 1:

So what are those ingredients? Again, let's break them down, so you and I'll put them in the show notes too. So you want to make sure? Sulfates, parabens, silicones, sodium chloride, alcohols and synthetic fragrances Okay, I want to make sure. Oh, just a side note on sodium chloride that is the one ingredient you don't want to use on your hair. If you have like a Brazilian blowout on your hair, cause that'll strip that puppy out overnight, just FYI, All right.

Speaker 1:

What about some ingredients that are good for your hair growth? I know I've made a couple of videos on this on my YouTube channel, but let's just talk. Break it down right now. Um, here, biotin. But let's just break it down right now. Here Biotin, which is actually a vitamin B7, it actually does play a crucial role in healthy hair, skin and nails. It helps to strengthen the hair shaft, reduces hair breakage and it promotes a thicker growing hair because it helps to support keratin, which is the key protein that makes up the structure of the hair. So you can either take a biotin vitamin as a supplement, but you can also get biotin rich shampoos. This can help improve your hair strength and reduce thinning. So the next time you see biotin in the ingredient list on the shampoo bottle, you should know exactly what it does for your hair.

Speaker 1:

Okay, another ingredient to maybe to look for is tea tree oil, and it's actually known for its dandruff clearing abilities. Uh, it's actually in a, a natural essential oil, and it has powerful antifungal and antibacterial properties. It's commonly used in shampoos designed to treat scalp conditions like dandruff and dermatitis, but it also helps to unclog hair follicles and promote the health of, promote the growth of healthy hair. So if you've been in the past using shampoos that weren't very good, maybe try one that has tea tree oil in it to help unclog your hair follicles. Or if you're using cheap um, I don't want to say cheap, but but most inexpensive products out there, they don't use quality ingredients. Come on, they can't or they couldn't charge what they charge. That's why when you're going into your hair salon and you have a bottle of shampoo and you're like, wow, I don't want to spend that much. Well, first of all, look at the ingredient list. That's why we're going over all of this.

Speaker 1:

And if hair is a priority to you, then you want to use good, quality ingredients on your scalp. And your scalp does absorb all these things into it, which affects the rest of your body and your health. So think of it that way. And most of the, the, the quality luxury brands you use so little. They're so concentrated and I know people say that all the time, but really, truly, my shampoo lasts probably I don't know four months, five months in the shower, I don't know, um, but you only use like the size of a dime and and I don't shampoo my hair every day, but, um, think about it you want to use quality, quality products on your scalp.

Speaker 1:

Okay, moving on to number three, product ingredient that's good for your hair niacin, which is a vitamin B3. This actually helps to support circulation and it plays a huge role in the health of your skin and your hair. So niacin helps to improve blood circulation to the scalp, which ensures that the hair follicles receive the necessary nutrients and oxygen to thrive. So a lot of you know like thickening shampoos or shampoos for thinning hair. They probably have niacin in them, all right?

Speaker 1:

Another ingredient saw palmetto. This is a natural extract derived from the fruit of the serineua repens plant. Sorry, I'm reading this so never heard of that. It's commonly used in hair care products designed to prevent hair loss and support hair growth. It inhibits the production of DHT, which is a hormone linked to hair loss, and if you don't know what that's all about, I do have a video on my YouTube channel and I talk all about it. Go look up my video that talks about hair loss, and I actually have graphs and images to show you how DHT actually goes over and doesn't. It's not a good thing. So you do want to halt the production of DHT, and this happens in everybody's hair. Uh, you get to a certain age and it's testosterone that is um producing this, or low testosterone. So the lower your testosterone, you produce more dht that is linked to hair loss. So, yeah, it's all connected anyway. So salt palmetto is one ingredient you want to look for to help prevent hair loss and support hair growth.

Speaker 1:

Caffeine caffeine is a well-known stimulant found in coffee and tea, but it's also included shampoos and hair treatments to to promote hair growth. Isn't that funny? It stimulates the hair follicles, increases blood flow to the scalp and it counteracts the effects of dht. Aloe vera aloe vera can be I love me some aloe vera, but it can be found in many shampoos and hair products and it soothes and hydrates the scalp, reduces irritation and it promotes a healthy environment for hair growth, which we all should have. That's the. That's the goal a healthy environment.

Speaker 1:

All right, let's talk about peppermint oil. This is an essential oil and it's known for its scent and its cooling sensation, and it's often included in hair care products for its scalp stimulating properties, because it helps to increase the blood flow to the scalp, it stimulates the hair follicles and it promotes growth. Peppermint oil rosemary rosemary oil is another essential oil with a long history of use in traditional medicine, so it helps to improve circulation, it stimulates hair follicles and it encourages new hair growth. Argan oil is another oil and it is essential fatty acids and antioxidants and it helps provide deep hydration and reduces hair breakage. Argan oil also helps to repair damaged hair and improve its overall strength and elasticity, which can help reduce hair loss due to breakage.

Speaker 1:

I use this phenomenal beautifying serum that has argan oil in it. It's fabulous. You can use it on your skin, your hair, everywhere. Love it, but get yourself some argan oil. Hyaluronic acid is another ingredient you want to look for, and why? Because it's a powerful humectant that can hold up to a thousand times its weight in water. I love it on my skin, but it's also great for your hair because it helps retain moisture in the scalp and the hair and it keeps them hydrated and helps reduce breakage.

Speaker 1:

Lots of great ingredients there, so here's some tips for choosing the right shampoo. Okay, because have you been to the drug store lately and gone down the shampoo aisle? It is challenging. I don't know how y'all do it. I mean, I, I, I am a very, very loyal following of my brand that I use, and so I don't really go out and experiment with other brands because I really love what I use, which is the Euphora products, and anybody who knows me knows that. Uh, but if you're just out at the drugstore and you don't know what to choose, it is super challenging. There's just so many.

Speaker 1:

Um, so maybe take this ingredient list and just try to avoid the ingredients that can contribute to hair loss, and here's some tips that maybe you can follow. First and foremost, read the label. Check the ingredient list, for, like the harmful chemicals, like the sulfates, the parabens and silicones you want to make sure that the label says sulfate-free, paraben-free and silicone-free. First and foremost, don't even pick up a product that doesn't say those three things. And you might want to choose products that say natural or organic on them, because they're less likely to contain the harmful chemicals Not all of them but look for products with plant-based ingredients and essential oils known for their hair friendly properties, like what we were talking about.

Speaker 1:

And then also focus on your hair type, you know. Select a shampoo specifically formulated for your hair type and your concerns, such as moisturizing shampoos for dry hair or volumizing shampoos for fine hair. They actually have shampoos for curly hair. They have shampoos for frizzy hair. If you have a challenge, they have a shampoo for it. I guarantee you Okay.

Speaker 1:

Also, if you have a sensitive scalp, do a patch test before you use your new shampoo, just to make sure that you're checking that you don't have a bad reaction. So what you can do is you could take a little dab on your finger and place it right behind your ear and let it sit. You know, rub it in like a lotion and don't rinse it and leave it there, usually 24 hours. I know kind of weird to leave a little soap behind your ear, but you want it. You're just testing for your sensitivity, especially if you have sensitive skin. And then you also want to look for beneficial ingredients, like we were talking about, like, uh, biotin, salt, palmetto and essential oils. So, uh, you know those are bonus points if they have those in there. But always remember this too.

Speaker 1:

I mean, shampoo is is huge and the conversations that just keep coming up. I know this is a concern with a lot of people, and but if you yourself are experiencing hair loss or scalp issues, it's super, super important to consult your dermatologist. Okay, they can provide personalized recommendations and suggest treatments tailored to your specific needs, especially if you're, um, uh, experiencing alopecia or anything like that. And your hairstylist would probably be the first person you would talk to, because usually if you have any concerns with your hair, you're going to talk to them and also, your hairstylist is in there. She could see your scalp. She can tell if your hair is thinning, especially if it's thinning in spots. Hopefully she'll. She'll be telling you this.

Speaker 1:

Uh, you know, there's many times that, uh, that's happened with me, with someone sitting in my chair that wow your hair, especially in a spot, so with alopecia, and, and maybe they don't know it. You know, I remember when I was going through alopecia I didn't know it. My daughter pointed it out when I was sitting on it. She was like, oh my gosh, mom, what is this? And it was a big old bald spot. Didn't even know it because it was in the back of my head. I'm not looking back there. So, anyway, talk to your hairstylist, talk to a dermatologist and just remember that.

Speaker 1:

You know, just take the time to choose the right shampoo and this can really improve the overall health and appearance of your hair. Sometimes we don't think about that. We think shampoo is just cleaning our hair, but it really is doing more than that. Your hair care routine is just as important to your overall wellness as exercise, as skincare. So you want to invest in products that help with your long-term health of your hair and scalp. And, yeah, if that means spending a little bit more upfront, then spend a little bit more upfront.

Speaker 1:

Listen to your hairstylist. They're not just sitting there trying to sell you expensive shampoo. More than likely they have a shampoo. That will help you. Uh, maybe get a little bit more information, maybe, uh, if, if I just know that hairstylists are not out trying to sell you BS, okay, so uh, but a lot of people do ask me, why do shampoos cost so much? And it's because a good shampoo uses quality ingredients that are good for your hair and your scalp. Look, if you have any more questions about hair loss, about hair care, about any of these ingredients, drop me a message.

Speaker 1:

I'm here. You can click on my link. You can go to my website, you can directly. However you want to do it, you can get in touch with me. I'm here for you. That's what we do, and always remember when you know better, you do better. Thanks for tuning in to all about hair. Here's what I'd love for you to do next. Take a screenshot of this episode and share it on your Instagram stories. Tag me at Denise Keilitz so I can see you're listening. Sharing helps more people discover the podcast and if you're really enjoying the show, please leave a review on Apple Podcasts. It really helps others find us. Thanks again, I'm Denise Keilitz, and remember when you know better, you do better. See you next week.

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