All About Hair

233: Curly Hair Explained

• Danise Keilitz • Season 4 • Episode 233

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What if you could unlock the secrets to perfecting and maintaining your unique curl type? On this episode of "All About Hair," we guide you through the intricate world of curly hair care, from wavy to coily textures. We'll break down the hair typing system that ranges from Type 1 straight hair to Type 4 kinky, coily hair. Discover how to identify your specific curl pattern, learn to distinguish between subtle differences like 2A and 2B, and get the lowdown on the best styling products, from light mousse for volume to sea salt texturizing mist for definition. Armed with this knowledge, you'll be able to communicate your hair needs effectively with your stylist and give your waves the TLC they deserve.

But that's not all—understanding tightly coiled curl types like 4A, 4B, and 4C is crucial for those with more textured hair. We'll explore the unique characteristics, moisture needs, and styling techniques for each type. Whether it's using curl cream for 4A curls or natural oils for 4C hair, the right approach can make a world of difference. We'll also touch on how factors like heat damage and hormonal changes can alter your curl pattern over time, and why hair porosity plays a pivotal role in effective hair care. Plus, get actionable tips on adjusting your routine with the seasons and maintaining your curls through hydration, styling products, and protective nighttime routines. This episode is packed with valuable insights for anyone passionate about curly hair care!

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Speaker 1:

Curly. Hair comes in so many different shapes and textures, and today we're breaking down all the different curl types whether you're wavy, curly or coily and how to care for each one. We'll talk about how to identify your curl pattern and the best products to use and tips to maintain healthy, defined curls. Stick around to learn about the four main types of curls, what makes each unique and how to care for your specific curl pattern to keep your hair looking its best. Welcome to All About Hair, the go-to podcast for stylists, salon owners and anyone passionate about hairstyling. Whether you're a seasoned stylist refining your skills or a curious listener looking to enhance your hair knowledge, we've got you covered. I'm your host, denise Kylitz, a former stylist and salon owner with four award-winning salons under my belt. With over 30 years of experience, I've dedicated myself to helping stylists excel in foundational haircutting, color theory, client communication and more, enabling them to build six-figure careers they can be proud of. My mission is to uplift our industry by sharing valuable insights gathered along my journey. Get ready for enlightening discussions, captivating interviews and practical advice on marketing, sales and technical skills. This is the podcast all about hair. Oh, my goodness, today you are in for such a treat. We are going to be talking about curly hair and since natural texture is so, so popular these days, there are a lot of questions about curly hair, right? What type of curly hair do I have? What is my curl pattern? You might've heard of the different numbering systems for curly hair. If you haven't. Each hair type is assigned to determine how we expect the hair to act. Meaning one is for hair that's straight and it's probably going to be difficult to style all the way up to four, which is really, really kinky, coily hair, and they're subdivided in between those numbering systems, so you can have a 1A, a 1B, a 4C, a 2B. We'll get to that, okay, but for right now, just know that curly hair is just an umbrella term used to describe hair with, like, tighter textures and the pattern of individual hair strands. The texture of each is categorized as being fine, medium or coarse, and we've talked about that before, and then each category in those numbering sections are determined by the circumference of the individual strands of hair. It's not that complicated, okay. We're going to break it down step by step, don't you worry. For example, 1a, 1b, 1c, this is straight hair and will probably be really difficult to style and hold a curl, whereas 4C, which is on the other end of the spectrum, will be coily, but the texture can be fine and delicate, even though you might not think it is. So if you're unsure of where your hair falls on this spectrum, you're in luck because we are breaking that down.

Speaker 1:

I've said it before this is, this is intense stuff. Okay, we're going to try to make it easy because, you know me, I like to break everything down in easy, layman terms. I want everybody to understand how things are said in the hair industry. That way, when you go and you sit down in the chair of your stylist, you guys can be talking the same language, because that's what it's about, right? You want to be able to talk to your stylist in the language they understand. And if you're a stylist and you don't know the language of curly hair and you want to learn more, this is your spot.

Speaker 1:

This is where you're going to learn the breakdown of the numbering systems for curly hair. The easiest way to determine curl pattern is by looking to see if the curl rotates round and back to sit just below the curl. Above, that would probably be coily hair. If the hair curls around but it drops lower when moving it into the next curl, that's probably curly hair. And finally, if the hair doesn't curl back around but the drops into a bend, guess what? That is Wavy hair. You, yeah, you know. Just remember knowing your curl type. It's going to help you understand how your hair behaves and especially how you care for it.

Speaker 1:

So let's start with type two type two wavy hair and I am going to make a video of this so you guys will be able to go over to my YouTube channel and actually see descriptions of what I'm talking about and what this looks like. Okay, so type two curls range from fine to coarse textures, just like every other numbering system. So you've got fine, medium, coarse wavy hairs bendable, it holds their shape and it grows in an S shaped pattern from the scalp. A way that you can style this type of hair is and reduce it from flattening out, like when you go into the humidity or getting frizzy is try diffusing your curls for the maximum volume and definition, and then you want to finish it off with a actually a lightweight holding spray, so you do need to hold those curls in place. So let's talk about type 2a. This is your fine texture. You can easily straighten it and it tends to lack volume. To give this type of hair more volume and fullness, consider using a light mousse to add some fullness at the base and pump up the volume without weighing down your strands. Okay, I'm showing my age.

Speaker 1:

Okay, type 2B is defined by thicker strands with an S-shaped wave starting around mid-length. So it could still be flat at the crown, but it has these S-shaped waves starting in the middle of your strands. And this type of hair has a thicker diameter than 2A. And to play up your natural waves, you could probably get away with a sea salt texturizing mist and if you haven't ever used one of those, they're fabulous. They're kind of hard to find now. Tell you the truth there, for a while they were all the rage, but if you can get your hands on a sea salt texturizing mist or a texturizing spray, that would be your best product to use. And then type 2C this is an S-shaped wave with more thickness and is prone to frizz, and it actually the S shapes go from the root all the way to the ends. But yeah, they will frizz, more so than the other two types of two curls.

Speaker 1:

So to keep these type of curls well-maintained, you're going to want to use a non-lathering, sulfate-free co-wash between wash days that won't strip any natural oils and moisture away, and a co-wash is basically it's a shampoo, and a co-wash is basically it's a shampoo. It does clean your scalp, but it doesn't really have any kind of harsh soap in it, so it's not going to wick those oils off your hair, because 2C is so prone to frizz. You really need to take care about that. So then you want to layer styling cream with mousse, and that'll help lock in moisture and adds hydration, which is so important. Any type of curly hair tell you the truth, a couple of really great ones to try is like hair oil. If you have a hair oil, that'll help put in hydration, and you guys know me, you know what I'm going to suggest. I love the Beautifying Serum by Euphora. That is a wonderful oil and it actually helps to heal your hair from the inside too.

Speaker 1:

All right, let's talk about type three curly hair. Okay so, type three curls these can be shiny, loose, s pattern curls all the way to a tight corkscrew. Okay so, don't. Don't think that if your hair is like a loose curl that you might not be a 3A. Okay so, all right, let me break this down. I've got to go to my notes. Give me a second. So type three curls range from shiny, loose S pattern curls to tight, corkscrew shaped curls that forms ringlets.

Speaker 1:

The secret to maintaining the health of these strands is to use products that moisturize and define. Why you're combating the frizz? Because you will frizz and you may also see some success layering products for an extended wear time, and that's what I'm talking about putting in your lightweight gel and then put a mousse over it. Okay, so let's talk about 3A. These are large, loose curls that tend to be fragile and frizz prone. So you might want to scrunch some kind of curl enhancing product into your damp hair and then use a diffuser, but then you can also spritz throughout the day a lightweight curl refresher and again, euphora has a curl refresher that I love and you just spritz it on dry hair, scrunch it in there and it'll bring your curls right back to life. Love, love, love it.

Speaker 1:

3b Now strands with 3B curl type. They come in the form of like those springy, tight ringlets, and you've seen gals that have that and guys. Sorry, this texture can get a little bit dry, so make sure you use curl gel formulated with humectants like hyaluronic acid, glycerin and aloe vera to attract moisture, offer definition and deter frizz. 3c this curl type is densely packed. I mean, this is your coarse curly hair high volume curls that are impacted by humidity, resulting in frizz. These are those curls that you see, and they get big when you go out in the humidity Whoa big. So to help stop your curls from drying out, you make sure to use sulfate-free creamy cleansers, and then you want to follow up by using a mousse and a styling cream while your hair is still wet.

Speaker 1:

Okay, now let's talk about coily hair, type four. Type four hair. It's also referred to as kinky or afro textured. This features tight, small curls that are naturally dry and can range from fine again to coarse. They form tight Z-shaped strands not S, think Z. They are zigzaggedy at the scalp and often experience shrinkage without help from products. So, no matter how these curls are styled, moisture is their best friend. I mean, you got to moisturize. So let's talk about 4A.

Speaker 1:

If someone has 4A curls, it means that their hair has a visible curl pattern with springy, densely packed, s-shaped coils. Try styling this type of hair with a curl cream with leave-in moisturizer, and that's really going to help keep your hair moisturized and then also incorporate a scalp massager in your hair care routine to detox the scalp while reducing buildup. Because it's such densely packed springy coils it's really hard to get into your scalp and clean it. Well, for B, this again densely packed curl type, but it has a sharp Z shaped angles instead of the coils. That can be shaped and styled in many ways. Because this hair type is prone to dryness, you've got to prime it and you got to use moisture sprays with leave-in conditioners, with hydrating curl creams in between washes. And, yeah, you gotta moisturize and again massage a scalp massager for your scalp. And then 4C is the curliest hair. It has a zigzag shape, kind of like the 4B, but it's less defined and sometimes you can't even see the curls because it's so tight. This curl type also experiences a lot of shrinkage than any other curl type. So avoid any products that contain sulfates again, that strip the hair of moisture, and instead you can actually use natural oils like argan, shea butter and coconut oil and definitely use a leave-in conditioner and creams to keep your hair moisturized.

Speaker 1:

Okay, now let's talk about the curl type variations and your changing curl patterns. A lot of people ask me can you have different curl patterns on your head. Absolutely, curls can change all throughout your scalp, okay, and they can also change over time and that's due to heat damage. So if you're using the flat iron over and over and over and over again, yes, you're going to damage your hair and it can actually permanently flatten your hair or take some of the curl out in certain areas. And then there's chemical treatments so you can change your curl pattern by doing. You can soften your curl pattern by doing stuff like Brazilian blowout or you can do a straightener and that will straighten it completely straight. But even hormonal changes changes your curl pattern and women, there's about six different times throughout your lifetime that your curl pattern or your texture of your hair can actually change. And you know you're talking puberty, you're talking menopause, perimenopause so yeah, you could get changes in your curl pattern because of those things.

Speaker 1:

Also, if you have any curl in your hair, any wave to your hair, you want to make sure that you know about your hair's porosity, because your hair's porosity will tell you what you need to do to take care of your hair and keep it healthy, because it affects the product absorption and the moisture retention. So, if you have a 2A type curl pattern, you're not going to need those heavy oils like a 4C would need you get me Just because you have curly hair. Not all curly hair is the same. You need to know your porosity and here's a tip on learning porosity Take a piece of your hair, pull out a piece of hair, or cut a little piece off.

Speaker 1:

If you don't want to pull out a piece and put it in a cup of water, okay. And if it sinks, what do you think? It's very porous because it's just like a sponge. It's soaking up all that water and it's going to sink to the bottom. If it floats, it's not as porous. That means your cuticle is tighter and it's not going to absorb all your product. Okay, do a little little test, okay.

Speaker 1:

So let's talk about how you can adjust your hair care routine as your curl type changes over time. You want to, definitely, even in different seasons of the year. I have curly hair, but I probably have a 2A. I mean, I can make it really curly by putting different products on there and diffusing it, or I can make it really straight, too by using a round brush and diffusing it. Or I can make it really straight too, by using a round brush. So I probably have a 2A, even though at times I feel like it's in the four category. But it's not not at all, it just depends on the day. The humidity does affect it, as it will most wavy curly hair. I know that we were discussing 2A. 2b isn't affected so much by humidity, but it is. I mean that cuticle is open in those bends, so you could have that.

Speaker 1:

But I would consider your winter time. It's going to be a drier time for your hair versus summertime. There's a little bit more humidity. You might want to use products that keep the humidity out of your hair. Also, you want to think about your nighttime routine for your hair. If you've got really level three, level four hair, you might want to consider only washing your hair once a week and you might want to consider putting your hair up into it like a satin wrap to make your curls last, so you don't have to worry about it. So what I like to think about is building a routine for your healthy curls.

Speaker 1:

Okay, there is this thing called lock in, ease out, maintain. Lock in means hydrate. You start with a protein rich shampoo and you follow it with a conditioner or a hair mask and apply leave-in conditioner. So what you're doing is you're locking in the hydration of your hair, no matter what if you're a 2A or a 4C, and then ease out. It means what are you going to use to release these curls or to make them stronger? Are you going to use a mousse? Are you going to use a styling cream, a gel? I can tell you the difference. A mousse will give you bigger, more volume. Gel, on the other hand, will give you more definition, okay, and it sets the curls. Then you can add like an oil serum to the ends of your hair to make them just feel a little bit more moisturized and then maintain. You want to make sure you're making your curls last. So you protect your curls overnight with a silk wrap and you avoid over washing, so you don't want to wash too much because you're just going to strip those natural oils off your hair, all right.

Speaker 1:

So there's a lot of product lines out there that cater to curly hair because it's so popular these days, which is wonderful. I love the natural texture these days, which is wonderful. I love the natural texture. You guys know my favorite products and I will leave a link to those. Euphoria has just come up with a new regimen for curly hair. Fabulous, I have to. I have to give them kudos, give them credit and they actually sell it in this nice little kit. It's really cool. I'll leave that link or you can go to my website, denisekeilitzcom, and just click on buy products.

Speaker 1:

So, anyway, I hope this has helped define the different curl types and the importance of kind of knowing what your curl type is, so if you are going to go to a curly expert, that you guys can talk the same language. So, whether your hair is wavy, curly or coily, whether it's a 2A, 3b, 4c, you got to know how to care for it and you have to understand your unique texture so you can have beautiful, healthy looking curls. Am I right? Right, if you have curly hair and if you have any tips to share, I really encourage you to share your curl type experiences and your tips in our comments. Go over to Instagram, share them there, maybe even take a picture, tag us in it. Curly hair is a thing, it is wonderful and I, the more you know, the the more you know, right? I always say, when you know better, you do better, and in this case that is definitely, definitely spot on. So thanks again for listening. Go out and have a great day.

Speaker 1:

Thanks so much for tuning in to this episode of All About Hair. Here's what I'd love for you to do next Take a screenshot of this episode and share it on your Instagram stories. Be sure to tag me at Denise Kylitz so I can see that you're listening. Sharing on your stories helps more people discover this podcast, allowing them to learn how to build their salon business more easily and faster. If you're really enjoying this show, please head over to Apple Podcasts and leave All About Hair a review. Your support helps boost the podcast and it makes it easier for others to find. All right, let's wrap this up. I'm Denise Kylitz and until next week, remember when you know better, you do better.

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